Cleaning the Wurly

IMG_1916

The Wurly is in pretty good condition.. It’s a 200A model, therefore from the mid to late 70s. The ‘A’ part of the model brings with it various minor improvements to the design, mostly related to hum and noise reduction. The internal AC power leads were moved inside a metal shielding tube – instead of, for some reason, just moving the transformer and rectifier away from the sensitive capacititive pickup system and amplifiers. A large metal shield was also wrapped around the pickup area to prevent hum – The bulk of which assumedly comes from nearby 50/60hz AC power. In addition, the number of available colours was reduced to 2 (from 4)- black and avocado. Thereby effectively removing the requirement to chose a colour. I’ve never seen one in Australia that wasn’t black. In fact I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 200 model in Australia either.

When did it get to Australia? When was it converted for 240v operation? The nameplace says 117v still. A clipping of newspaper pulled from under the keyboard shows some interest in Ohio at least.

DSC_1679

The main issue when I got it was filth. It becomes clear that a whilst 40+ year old piano has a history we’ll never get to know, the grime accumulated is unambiguous.

Starting to disassemble it, the original intent was just to give it a clean and put it back together. Thus, lazily I didn’t fully remove the amp rail, but instead lifted it and pulled the keys out from underneath.

DSC_1644
You can start to see the amount of dust built up under the keys
DSC_1656
Example of the delightful buildup found along the keys

DSC_1660

DSC_1682

The original intent was just to disassemble, check for any obvious issues, give it a clean and put it back together. Of course, the project morphed into a full restoration.

After disassembly, the following was found inside my precious piano –

  • 2d dust
  • Spilled drink residue
  • 3d dust
  • Newspaper snippets
  • Dust that’s hardened and possibly had mould growing in it
  • Tinsel runoff
  • Hair con dust
  • Dead insect larvae
  • Dust (uncategorised)

DSC_1660

DSC_1663
Dust, raked into piles just like bailing hay. Artisan organic home grown and bailed dust fetches far less interest than hay, however.

DSC_1668

DSC_1683
Bulk cleaning completed
DSC_1719
Fully disassembled and cleaned with metho

DSC_1724

 

DSC_1696
The vital organs

Another dead motherboard

It’s not been a wonderful few weeks for techology. My home Internet connection has re-developed a condition which is commonly refered in technical circles to as “slow as arse”. After a nice morning at the beach, I managed to drop my phone when I got home, which resulted in that joyous moment of picking it up to see a smashed screen; Much like toast, when dropped an iPhone is guaranteed to land buttered side down. I mean screen side down.

And to top it off, my laptop blew up.

Blew up is actually a bit of an overstatement – The discrete GPU failed (a Radeon HD 6770M); The remainder of the computer continues to work. It’s a 2011 Macbook Pro, and suffers from a well known failure mode. The obvious symptom of this is getting stuck at a grey screen after the boot progress bar gets to the end. The Internet will tell you that it’s absolutely definitely rumoured to be a failure due to removal of lead solder from the manufacturing process, and that the replacement solder didn’t deal with heat so well, eventually causing the chip to become partially desoldered.

The issue is that I’ve already had that failure, and had the board replaced (for free) in August. The original board lasted about 3.5 years (although it stopped being able to drive an external screen some time before failing completely). The new board failed 5 months into its life. So, does this mean the free replacement program just threw in spare boards that had the same defect? Did they have workforce issues and have to hire unemployed clowns to run the factory?

The reason, of course, is that the new boards have exactly the same (potential) issue. They’re not going to redesign and build these components for an out of production machine. According to the tech I spoke to, a few laptops he’s worked on have already failed at least twice under this scenario. Getting 4 years out of a computer without spending a dollar in repair costs is pretty decent, especially given the amount of use I get out of it – I generally consider a laptop to be good for about 3-4 years. If my computer died 14 months in, that would be a different story.

On the upside, after some messing about, the Lappy rides again. The replacement program runs some time into Feburary (if you bought your computer more than 3 years ago), so if you’re still considering whether it’s worth getting your broken laptop fixed for free, you’re running out of time. Apparently they wont tell you this, but each board comes with a 12 month warranty – not the 90 day warranty you get told about. Which makes sense; I can’t see how under consumer law in Australia a 90 day warranty is acceptable. Sure, this part was free in this case. But it was replaced under the auspices of the normal part replacement, which is usually a paid programme for out-of-warranty computers.

So that’s great, but it doesn’t solve the problem of how to get on with things over the few days before the lappy could be fixed.

Whilst the discrete GPU is dead, the rest of the computer continues to work, including the integrated Intel GPU. Which is pretty wild really – I might have had a component become disconnected in my portable computer, but can continue to compute by firing up the spare graphics subsystem. At least, in theory.

When both GPUs are working, the OS seamlessly switches between them on demand. Most of the time, you’re not aware that the change is happening. Older versions of f.lux used to get tripped up and the colour temperature would switch as the system flicked between GPUs. Newer versions seem to have this fixed. And there’s an excellent utility gfxCardStatus which gives you visibilty and some control over when this changes.

Whilst I can think of a few improvements to the logic of when to switch GPUs, this really is a marvel that has been largely ignored. When these dual-GPU machines came out, you had to log out to switch between chips – effectively restarting the graphics subsystem. Quietly, some release of OS X a few years ago had this re-engineered such that the output device could be swapped on the fly. I have no idea what the inside of this code looks like, but when you consider the amount of state flying around (think of what’s going on in the OpenGL/CL world in particular), this is a major achievement. In this age of operating system marketing, this unfortunately was mentioned (I think) only as a brief footnote – if at all. Sadly, most of the marketing space was dedicated to things like ZOMG New EMOTICONS!!1!11!! ⛵️⛵️⛵️⛵️⛵️⛵️

Unfortunately, if the discrete GPU is dead, the OS can’t leave it alone and move on. Evidently the main graphics init process, which comes pretty late in the boot order, involves probing and initialising both GPUs. Under most normal use scenarious the integrated GPU is then used. There doesn’t appear to be a way to tell the system just to ignore the discrete GPU. Very possibly there’s some kind of switching gizmometry going on between both chips that means you can’t just not initialise one of them. Or, just maybe the code wasn’t written with this scenario in mind, and always assumed both are working. The primary purpose of these dual-GPU setups isn’t redundancy – it’s performance vs battery life. Handling a hardware failure is certainly a nice-to-have, but unfortunately, it seems we don’t have.

After some Googling, there really doesn’t appear to be a clean way to force the discrete GPU off. There’s been some discussion of EFI variables, but this didn’t work for me – they appear to be hardware specific. Some kind of nvram / EFI setting would have made the process a lot smother.

You can still boot the OS to text mode (ie single user) and it works fine; Assumedly this uses the integrated GPU, so long as you don’t have an external screen plugged in.  So we still have a working computer and console accesss. There’s a process to boot a Mac in this state with working graphics, and that’s to disable the AMD drivers. Basically, if you move /System/Library/Extensions/AMD* to somewhere else, and reboot, you should get a kinda working graphics system. This involves the system booting twice – I’d say the first time involves rebuilding the kext cache if you’ve not done it explicitly.

The problem is that I’m guessing most people who have had this issue have now had their motherboards replaced, or gotten on with life. In other words, most of the discussion took place before upgrading to El Capitan, and System Integrity Protection. It’s no longer trivial to boot to single user mode and move some files out from under /System.

So, no problem, I’ll just disable SIP. That’s easy enough. Normal process is to boot to the recovery partition, fire up a terminal, and one command turns it off. So, just reboot, hold down command-R and …. oh. Recovery mode uses graphics… oh.

Not that I could find it documented anywhere, but at least on my laptop, it’s possible to boot the recovery partition into single user mode (ie text). I took a punt and it worked – Hold down Command-R-S on startup. The Apple support doc listing startup keys doesn’t explicitly state that you can or can’t combine them. Chosing which partition to boot from is orthogonal to how far through the startup process to go, so there’s no obvious reason why you can’t combine key combos when it makes sense.

You then should be able to disable SIP like normal (csrutil disable). This, I assume, will only work with the local recovery partition. Booting into recovery mode from the internet will bring down the OS version that was originally loaded on the computer when it was shipped. As of the time of writing, most laptops will be older than El Capitan, and won’t know anything about SIP.

After you’ve got SIP off, you can fall back to the known methods, some of which apparently include intentionally overheating your computer to force the discrete GPU off and falling back to the integrated one.

If your experience with Unix is ‘the internet told me to paste this into terminal’, best off avoiding these procedures. It is only moving files around, but get it wrong and it gets very tricky to fix if you don’t know what you’re doing.

After messing about, it’s kinda working, again, but it certainly ain’t the normal integrated GPU graphics. gfxCardStatus still sees the discrete GPU as active. I’m guessing this is some kind of fallback, non accelerated mode, where all the graphics are drawn in software. All the video hardware is really doing here is providing a buffer like in the days of yore when computers were stream powered. All Macs produced any time recently have had some kind of GPU, so this must be a fallback/reference mode not intended for regular use. It’s buggy – there are graphical artifacts everywhere. Unsurprisingly the frame rate when dragging a window around is low. But it still is vastly more useful than no computer at all.

 

 

Cleaning up the wood

Not too much detail to go into here. It’s wood. It needs to be cleaned up. The only real question was weather to treat the wood at all, other than a bit of cleaning.

The original manufacturing process left the wood natural, but it seems that a lot of people are now staining the wood when refurbishing their pianos. There are numerous arguments about whether one should leave these things original or not. In the end I decided to stain the wood with tung oil, which adds a nice light brown tone, and hopefully should protect the wood for the years to come. It also won’t significantly alter its appearance. This piano’s already 43 years old – I’d like it to make it to at least 80 without needing another overhaul.

IMG_2420
Existing conductive foil, along with muck from cleaning the pickups
IMG_2255.jpg
Old conductive foil removed

The wood’s not in terrible condition. After removing the old conductive foil, and most of the associated residue, it was given quick wash with some metho to get the last of the glue. Finally some light sanding was in order.

DSC_1869
After sanding, one side with a single coat of oil, the other natural still
DSC_1923
Looking nice after a few coats of oil. Buz’s stamp is a bit faded but still clear

Cleaning the pickups

Electrically, the Rhodes is effectively the same thing as an electric guitar, with one dedicated pickup per tine (‘string’). Here’s the pickups before any work was done. They’re not too bad. Most of the corrosion is pretty superficial. The exposed ends of the magnets were pretty corroded and oddly covered with metal dust. Not sure where this would have come from, but either way, if the dust is there, the magnets will grab it.

Also clearly some of the pickups have been replaced with designs from different eras. Note how a lot of the bolts don’t line up. Which means the harp has had a bunch of extra new holes added to accommodate these new units.

IMG_2389

DSC_1826
The business end looking pretty nasty

IMG_2377

IMG_2418
After some furious cleaning with a Dremel and a toothbrush, and a lot of Windex, the brackets are starting to look a lot more respectable
IMG_2428
The harp wood after the pickups had been cleaned and removed
DSC_1887
And finally, looking nice and clean after a visit from the Dremel brush and compressed air fairy

Rhodes: restoring the harp

A good percentage of the work in getting the Rhodes piano restored is in the harp. It’s the most rundown part of the instrument. It contains the bulk of the metal, and hence corrosion; It’s lived a good percentage of its life in the salty coastal air and will continue to do so. And finally it’s the only part of the job I’m going to employ the services of a 3rd party to complete, so it’s good to get this part underway.

Firstly, lets get the untouched harp into the precision work area (my front verandah) –

IMG_2217
Tines and tonebars and pickups, oh my!

So, lots of metal there. A few select corroded areas –

IMG_2220
Someone’s helpfully written on the notes, just in case you get trapped inside the piano and have to play a tune to get attention
IMG_2222
It seems this part was so corroded I couldn’t hold the camera still

 

IMG_2248
Tonebar corrosion

So, pulling the harp apart is pretty simple, it’s really a matter of unscrewing and unbolting everything, and not destroying the pickup wiring too much. Even simpler if you have a socket set – which I didn’t (that was a flimsy enough pretext to later schedule another adventure to Bunnings). Instead, removing the tines from the tonebars involved wrestling with a pair of shifting spanners, which didn’t go so well when the softish tonebar bolts were deformed, no doubt due to earlier tinkerers who similarly didn’t have a socket set. On the upside, no one lost any eyes, which is an achievement given significant forces required, sharp metal, and beer. Some new tonebar bolts are on order.

IMG_2254
Partially dismantled harp. Note the tonebar-tine pairs still together.

After all the zinc plated parts were removed – that is the outer frame and the tonebars – they were off to be replated. This involved my first exciting trip to the Sydney suburb of Belmore. It was a hot mid-December day, the feeling of which was generally compounded by the general eau-de-bonkers that commercial districts take on a few weeks out from Christmas. My first impression of the place involved mindlessly staring into the distance whilst waiting for the lights to change and inadvertently fixating on the name of a hairdresser across the road entitled “Who’s hair?”. Because English is stupid, of course, this doesn’t take the expected possessive form but instead actually means “Who is hair?”. Yet another obstacle for immigrants trying to set up a new life and business.

I walked to the metal plating factory with my jangly box of metal bits, distractedly pondering that age old question of who exactly is hair, only to discover that having some kind of marked reception area or counter was not applicable. Instead I just kinda found myself in a the middle of bunch of offices, much to the bemusement of the staff. I’m not sure what constitutes a normal client job in a Sydney electroplating factory, but mine certainly wasn’t one. The staff I spoke to all became flustered when I talked to them, and my job was escalated right to the top. After talking to the manager for a while, got them to take the metal bits and off I went. A few weeks later, I got them back in a similar process.

IMG_2270
Before. Also apparently before decent lighting was invented
DSC_1903
After

So all the metal’s been acid bathed, cleaned with some kind of beads (assumedly the abrasive kind, or perhaps just some kind of good luck bead) and then re-plated with zinc chromate (hence the gold colour). It’s all looking pretty spiffy now.

DSC_1918
Outer frame after replating
DSC_1899
Pile o’ tonebars

So now these are back, it’s on to cleaning the pickups, restoration of the wood, and reassembly.

Avant Garde First Post

Hello. WordPress told me that I should write a first post to tell you who I am and why I am here. Thus, in the interests of not annoying the Blogmonster, here it is. I’m Nick. I don’t do too much. I know things about computers. I mostly started this to post pictures of various musical instrument repairs – giving friends and family a convenient place to ignore my updates rather than having to lean over and press delete when I spam them at their email.

Truth be told, I’m mostly doing this like most people do to see what their blog looks like with text on it.